For the first part of our trot alongside Ennerdale Water, our top halves stayed dry but it was very wet under hoof, as streams were running along the rocky path. Then, as the path got drier, it started raining, so one way or another we were destined to be stay wet. But that's the Lake District for you, and the wonderful scenery and sheer joy of being in the Lakes, more than made up for a slight dampness.
We were grateful to the Ennerdale Youth Hostel which allows walkers in to make a cup of tea or coffee and have a rest to dry off. It was very civilised.
Talking of Youth Hostels, when we got to the famously isolated Black Sail hostel a few miles further along the route, it was rather different to how our female minder remembered it from 18 years ago, when she stayed there on her previous Coast to Coast walk. It was undergoing some serious refurbishment, and for the benefit of Aunty and Uncle G, we're including a picture ...
We're sure it will be very nice when finished, but wonder how much of its unique character it will have retained.
There is a critical turn up Loft Beck, a little after Black Sail, and we had read that it is often missed by Coast to Coast walkers resulting in a number of Mountain Rescue call outs to lost walkers. It is interesting that on the C to C way-marking is inconsistent. When it's fairly clear where to go we found we'd be getting a way-mark, but when it wasn't, there'd be nothing to help.
We had no navigation problems though, and I just followed my nose, overtaking lots of walkers, making hard work of the ascent of the Beck. The other chaps weren't far behind with our minders just behind them.
At the top, as we headed towards the Honister pass, we got some fine views over Buttermere and Crummock Water through the clouds.
We were heading for Borrowdale and once we'd hit the road at Honister, we didn't think we'd have much further to go. How wrong we were! It seemed to take forever to get there although it was fine walking. When we did eventually reach Rosthwaite, we realised our accommodation was at Stonethwaite, a mile further. However, our destination for the evening was worth the extra mile ...
... we were staying at the Langstrath Hotel, which was a nice place to stay and meant we had a relaxing evening with a good meal.
Lots of love, Wooly, George, Yorkie and Gio xxx
SJ254784 - nr Llanfair Hill - 430 m
8 years ago
1 comment:
What a sad sight we found your picture of Black Sail.
When I think of our past visit I remember a huge brown pot of tea awaiting us on our arrival, a quick shower in the newly installed facility, a huge freshly cooked meal which we ate with boots drying on the rafters above our heads and going to bed carrying our own lamp to illuminate the dorm.
We enjoyed your fine view of Buttermere and Crummock Water better than the one of Black Sail.
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