We didn't realise how many pilgrims were ahead of us until we got to a place called Gonzar, after about 8 km. This was the first place, after Portomarin, that you could get breakfast and it was very crowded, as nearly everyone stopped there. The early arrivals must have walked a long way in the dark, and this continues to baffle us, as we find the 15 minutes or so that we do in the dark, to get us out of town, more than enough.
The mix of nationalities that are walking is quite something. Germans are in abundance, there are plenty of French, plus Dutch, Irish, Fins, Swiss, Americans, Canadians, South Africans, Aussies & Kiwis, Brazilians, Spanish, Orientals (can't be more precise) and some English, including a rather alternative type (bald with a tuft of hair and bivvying every night) who has apparently walked from Manchester.
Over breakfast we chatted to a Dutch couple that we have seen several times. They have an interesting knitted creature that is strapped to the side of the lady's rucksack. We've been wondering what it was for a few days; we're still not sure, but apparently he comes from Amsterdam Zoo and goes on holiday with various people and collects holiday snaps. He doesn't seem to say a lot, but the minders are very nice.
The days fall into a bit of a routine now and there is not so much new to report. From today, the new things are:
a) the increasing pilgrim traffic, a veritable pilgrim motorway
b) admiring the interesting structures for storing farm produce ...
c) passing the waymark that we believe equates to 50 miles to go
When we got to Palas de Rei, after just over 16 miles, we passed an information booth on the outskirts, staffed by a very nice lady who gave us a list of rooms and marked locations on a map. This was extremely helpful as we got a basic room at the first place she marked, and we also got an official town hall stamp from her for our credencials.
The stamps (sellos) are increasingly important now we are on the critical last 100 km. New pilgrims have to get at least 2 every day, preferably from churches, but it's no so important for us given our large collection.
It's currently after 6.00 pm and the temperature across the road at the pharmacy still shows 28 degrees. Apparently it may start to get cooler from tomorrow.
Just to rub the Midlands branch minders nose in it, every evening we get a 3 course pilgrim's menu that includes a bottle of wine for €9! It's good to be in a pilgrim friendly country. And the even better news is that the meals are bigger than they were 2 years ago, so we're not losing much weight.
Bye for now,
Love from the Camino bears xxx
1 comment:
Hello Norfolk Branch! We think you've earned your big meals and wine each night - enjoy! Polly would like to know if you have seen any Play Mobil pilgrims? It's cooling down here too but still v v nice, albeit snow forecast for next week! Can't believe this but time will tell.
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