Lion Sighted, but no Zebra

Leaving Osmotherly we had a long day's walk ahead of us. Next stop was the Blakey Lion Inn which enjoys a remote moorland location a big  20-ish miles from Osmotherly.

As we'd started today's walk yesterday, before doubling back, we took a short cut up to rejoin the route of the C to C. This involved a rather steep scramble through heather and bracken - it might actually have been easier to go up to the road. Once on the route proper, the walking and views were amazing. There was one big draw back though - the moors are far from flat!

We had expected one moor, but the reality was whole series of moors separated from each other by deep valleys. I suppose the area isn't called the North York Moors, not Moor singular, for nothing. Now the moors are a lot higher than you think and the descent into the valleys was steep, which of course meant the climbs back out were equally steep. It was certainly challenging walking, but very rewarding.

At this point in our walk we were sharing our route with the Cleveland Way. You might have thought this would have meant traffic on the path would have been plentiful, but it wasn't, there wasn't a single other bear in sight - strange?!

As we went up moor and down valley we had a few interesting sights as well as the stunning scenery.

This included one of Wainwright's favourites, the Wain Stones, which provided an excellent scrambling diversion, great for climbing enthusiasts myself, George, and Yorkie.

We reached the end of the 'up and down' section in time for a late lunch the far side of Cley Bank Top. For many C to C walkers this is the end of a day's stage, and the great man, Alfred Wainwright himself, suggests that only strong walkers consider continuing. We're pleased to say that we clearly fall into this latter category, as we had a further 10 miles to do to reach the end of our daily stage. However, this wasn't a problem for us, even though we'd had a challenging morning, as a) we were walk fit by now and b) we were about to embark on a flat and fast stretch of the route. This was because, after one final climb, we would be crossing Urra Moor following an old railway route. We romped along at a fast pace, thoroughly enjoying the easy walking, and we had the moor almost all to ourselves, with just the numerous red grouse for company ...

At Bloworth Crossing, truly in the middle of nowhere, the C to C route leaves the Cleveland Way to follow the historic Rosedale Ironstone Railway. Shortly after we'd have liked to stop for tea, and just as we wondered just when the Blakey Inn would appear on the horizon, it did ...  

... the inn is that red roofed building, looking quite distant. In fact it was distant, and it took quite a while to get there. Nevertheless we we there by about 6.00 p.m. which was pretty good going, especially as, not only had we walked more than 20 miles, we had climbed more than the height of Snowdon.

The Lion is a great place for a hearty meal and a pint or two of real ale. We especially enjoyed the Old Peculiar and we slept well, reassured by the fact that we had a much shorter day tomorrow.

Lots of love, George, Yorkie, Wooly and Gio xxx

To the Edge of the Moors

We enjoyed our stay in Danby Wiske. It's an optional stopping point on the Coast to Coast - many go straight through to Ingleby Cross - but if we had done the same, we would have missed some real treats: the fine ales in the White Swan, the sword dancing and a lovely stay with Frank and Doreen at the Old School House.

The other advantage is that you don't have too far to walk the next day. We were in Ingleby Cross at lunchtime ... 

... where the Cross is quite prominent, as is the local pub, which provided a welcome diversion.

We sat outside with our drinks as it was a fine day. We watched a man across the road from the pub swapping cars in his drive. They weren't any old cars though, they were classics. The Morris Minor was moved out of the drive and parked outside the pub, right beside it. We got chatting to it's driver as he was a friendly sort. And just look who was sitting in the back seat ....

... what a fine figure of a bear he was and he fitted the car so well he looked perfectly at home. We got permission to sit in the car so as to have a chat and we felt very small in comparison. Our new friend was a gentle giant though, and kindly offered us a lift, but of course we declined, as we planned to walk every step of the way. 

We didn't stop in Ingleby Cross, as most Coast to Coast walkers do, but walked on a bit further, then diverted off the main Coast to Coast path to overnight at Osmotherley. This is a good place to stay as there is a variety of accommodation and a choice of pubs and eating places. 

On our afternoon's walk, which took us to the edge of the North York Moors, we got very close to a trig point.

This was quite exciting as a) it signified a return to higher ground after a lengthy, but not unpleasant flat section and b) it was a trig point to feature (soon!) on our sister blog, Bears on Trig Points. 

We all looked longingly ahead to the high ground of the moors before turning round to go into Osmotherley. We were all looking forward to the next section of the walk. 

Lots of love, Wooly, George, Yorkie and Gio xxx

Richmond and Beyond

After Reeth came Richmond.  We were quite excited as we approached Richmond as it has a lot of interesting history and we were arriving early with plenty of time in hand to look round.

However, and sorry Richmond, it was a bit disappointing and we found little to do there. We did get the feeling that Richmond has fallen on hard times and around the castle walls was evidence of a significant street drinking problem. Our Bed and Breakfast, Frenchgate, however, was another good one, with fabulous conservatory views, and we had a peasant pub meal and a good night's sleep. What more does one need?

The next morning we reached another important milestone, this being the crossing of the A1. Actually we didn't cross it, we passed under it, which wouldn't normally be worth mentioning, except for the fact that our female minder reported vivid memories of crossing over the A1 on her previous Coast to Coast walk. She found it hard to believe that she had unknowingly gone 'off piste' before.

Being keen racing fans, as many of our readers will know, we were quite excited to find that the C to C route took us right past Catterick racecourse. Sadly there was no racing on that day, but as we had not yet ticked off Catterick, we stopped off to have a bit of a sneak preview.

By now the terrain was pretty flat so it was easy walking to Danby Wiske where we were to stay for the night. The village is blessed by an excellent Bed and Breakfast in the Old School House, where Frank and Doreen proved to be lovely hosts. There is also the White Swan Inn which offered a great range of real ales and served up a good meal later on. As we sampled our first beer, at about 3.30 p.m.  we were pleased to be re-acquainted with some fellow C to C walkers. They were not stopping overnight and were doing the long 23 miles to Ingleby Cross, so had a long way still to go. They had blisters and were very envious of us, who had finished walking for the day, as they really did not want  to set out again. We tried not to feel smug - actually we didn't, as they were lovely Australian ladies and we were quite worried for them.

Quite by accident we'd picked a good night to be at the pub, as the local sword dancing club, of which the Landlord is a member, were practising in the pub that night. 

It was very entertaining and the music was good too. We like having authentic entertainment for free, and of course, being adventurous bears, we couldn't resist having a go. We took care to keep our paws  clear of the blades as we needed them for the rest of the walk. 

Lots of love

George, Yorkie, Gio and Wooly xxxx

Alls Well that Ends Well

So there we were mapless, guideless and pretty much clueless as to where to walk. Fortunately this is where staying at good accommodation pays off. We popped down to see the friendly owner and explained our predicament. Suddenly it was not a problem at all. He went through his own set of maps and came up with the 1:25000 map of the area, which he was prepared to lend us.

Phew, what a gent and a true holiday saver. We now had a map showing all possible paths from Keld to Reeth. The nightmare had well and truly gone and the sun had come out, in more ways than one.

There was only one (small) problem and that was that the Coast to Coast route wasn't marked on the map. Once again though, fortune was smiling on us, and Michael (of the big breakfast fame) and his friend, were outside sorting out their gear. They lent us their guide book so we could see the 2 route options and mentally transfer them to our map. As it was a hot day, our friends were going to take the river route rather than the moorland option. We thought this might be a good choice, but decided to make the final decision when we reached the parting of the ways.

As we chatted, Michael's friend told us he had left his waterproof jacket at the previous night's stop, and we felt better when we realised that we weren't the only ones mislaying vital gear.

We set off in high spirits, looking forward to the day's walk. The Swaledale scenery was amazing and the sun was well and truly out. All was well with the world.

When we got to the old tractor which marked the parting of the 2 routes to Reeth ...

... we stopped for a little play on it and decided to have a photo. Our simple request for a photo resulted in a squawk, similar to the earlier, 'we have no map' one. This was because we had no camera. Our female minder decided it must have been left on the dressing table in our room and forgotten in the confusion and panic of dealing with the 'no map' situation.

Our noble male minder said he would go back to the Lodge and collect it. It was about a mile and it wasn't flat terrain. Our female minder waited at the tractor with us and the rucksacks. No sooner had our male minder disappeared from sight, when she started to think more logically about where the camera could be. The more she thought about it, the more convinced she was that it wasn't back at the Lodge, but had been packed away in the overnight bag, along withe the map. She tried to phone but there was no signal and anyway the other phone was with us in the abandoned rucksack.

Although he made good time, it was a long wait for our male minder's return. As predicted, the camera had not been left at the Lodge. By this time, the morning was half over, so we decided to take the more straightforward river route, rather than the moorland route, which some of us had walked twice before anyway. There was some other logic to our thinking. It was a very hot day, and there was a pub marked on the river route, but not on the moorland route.

Sadly, when we got to the pub it had recently closed - for good, not just that day. However, the walk along the Swale was superb and, at times, gave us some much needed shade and the opportunity to paddle.

Some of the route was across lush pastureland, with lots of gated stiles as in our picture below.

Now, I realise that I might be a fairly compact sheep, but I couldn't help wondering if the gates were really necessary. Only a rambo sheep could climb up those steps and then he'd probably be too fat to squeeze throughout the gap.

As we neared Reeth we had to do a river crossing using some ginormous stepping stones. Just look at the size of them compared to us. The distance between them might have been fine for humans but we had to pole vault between them. True we could have hitched a rucksack lift, but it wouldn't have been as much fun.

We liked Reeth when we arrived as it was full of pubs and had a nice green and good facilities including a Post Office so we could post the borrowed map back. It was a 5 minute walk to our Bed and Breakfast where we discovered our hosts had only moved in a couple of day's earlier. They couldn't have been more welcoming though, and it was another great stay. The icing on the cake was unzipping our overnight bag and finding both the missing map and the camera.

We weren't going to make that mistake again. As an interesting twist, the lady in the Post Office knew the owner of Keld Lodge, so we had a pleasant chat about what a nice man he was.

Lots of love, Wooly, Gio, George and Yorkie xxx

Comfortable in Keld

We walked into Keld at the end of a satisfying day's walk, along the route of the Pennine Way. We think Coast to Coast walkers must far outnumber Pennine Way walkers as the Pennine Way is not for the faint hearted and, although we don't consider ourselves wimps, it has certainly never appealed to us.

Now Keld is a delightful and quiet spot in Swaledale. It was the obvious place to stop for the night and the reality is there are no other realistic options, so this was a happy coincidence. It always amuses us that the smaller the place you stay at, the more likely you are to have to ask for directions. There are only a handful of houses in Keld but we couldn't spot Keld Lodge, our destination, so we asked someone where it was. It was right at the top of the village, but well worth the extra couple of minutes walk. It looked good as we approached and it lived up to expectations.

We had a warm welcome and were invited to take tea and cake in the residents lounge. Our room was very nice but we did little more than dump our bags as we hastened down to have our afternoon tea.

The cake was delicious and the lounge was cosy. As we relaxed and read about the Lodge we discovered it was the former Keld Youth Hostel. Our female minder was shocked that she hadn't realised this as she had in fact stayed at Keld Youth Hostel at least 2 times in the past. To get over the shock she helped herself to some of our male minders cake as she thought he didn't want it - apparently he did!

Back in our room we got ourselves clean and sorted. We can confirm that Keld is the official half way point, so it was time to pack up the St Bees to Keld combined map and guide, and get out, and have a read of, the equivalent map for the second half, Keld to Robin Hoods Bay.

Before dinner we took a beer outside to admire the view outside as it was glorious countryside. Gio stayed outside for a while, drinking in the view faster than his beer, but the human element of our party hastened indoors saying that midges were biting - they can't get through fur though!

Dinner in the Lodge restaurant was very nice. The owners had made a real effort to offer a menu with a bit of class, but which still provided the food and portions you need after a good day's walk.

Breakfast was also great and there was the regular cooked breakfast on offer and also the 'Keld' breakfast which was 'as the regular breakfast but bigger'. We'd seen people eating the regular breakfast and it looked pretty good so we settled for it. We were pleased to see one of our fellow walkers, Michael, who we'd encountered quite a few times since setting off, order it, as we wanted to see what it was like. It came and it was big. We wouldn't have managed it, although Yorkie would have had a good go. Michael, who is a big chap, did pretty well, but we have to report that it did beat him - just!

As we enjoyed our breakfast we saw the Pack Horse van draw up and collect our luggage - it is an early collection from Keld, so we had taken our bags down before breakfast.

Knowing that our bags were safely on their way to our next night's accommodation, we decided we should also get on our way. Back in our room, collecting up our rucksacks and gear, there was a squawk of horror from our female minder. Our map was nowhere to be found and she had the sneaking suspicion that both old and new maps might have been packed into the overnight bag, instead of just the old one. As you know our bags had been collected, so what were we to do? We had to get to Reeth but how would we find the route?

Answer next time.

Lots of love, George, Yorkie, Gio and Wooly xxx

Somme Crossing

We had a couple of jobs to do before putting our red/blue route research into practice. We had to say goodbye to our Suffolk Branch travelling companions, who had been such great company (they were only walking the first half) and wish them bon voyage as they travelled home to Suffolk. Then we had to mark entering the second half of the route with photographs at the half way fingerpost.

This was down by the river right where we rejoined the C to C route. Actually we'll confess our error before the eagle eyed spot it from the photo and worry about our mathematical prowess. We weren't half way in distance but we were in terms of the holiday!

With our reduced party numbers we made quite a quiet start as there was less chatting than usual. We were also a tiny bit worried about whether the route we had on our map would be the right one or if we'd be entirely reliant on spotting coloured markers on an unknown route. 

It wasn't long before we discovered we had nothing to worry about. We came across an information board showing the 2 main routes and by happy coincidence the route shown on our map was the blue route that we needed to take. If it hadn't been we would have been fine anyway as we were able to take quite a detailed photo.

 We'd been assuming the second half of the route was going to be a lot flatter than the first. This wasn't about to happen any time soon though, and it was quite a pull up to the Nine Standards. This is the reason why they are visible from quite some distance away. It was also very windy as we got closer to the top. Wooly discovered this when he posed for a picture with the standards in the background. We managed to capture the exact moment of him being blown off his perch. 

Leaving the ridge of nine standards and following the posts of the blue route we experienced bog trotting in all its glory and we felt like we'd been transported to the Somme.

This was the typical scene for a mile or two, and in places the mud was pretty deep. Trekking poles are essential for the crossing to allow depths of mud and its liquidity factor to be tested. We were a bit sad though when our male minder managed to break one of his trekking poles in the process. He did a good job though and selected great routes for us to follow in his footsteps; we were just like Good King Wenceslas and his page. Somehow (miracle!) we all managed to stay clean and dry and we also enjoyed the crossing and the big open spaces. It was actually easier walking than the narrow, muddy and slippery stream path which took us away from the bog and towards Keld our destination for the night.

We'll pick up the tale there next time.

Lots of love, George, Yorkie, Gio and Wooly xxx

Exotic Kirkby

Distractions over, we now resume our Coast to Coast walk and the special Bed and Breakfast we so enjoyed in Shap.

We stayed at White Gill House with Ken and Barbie (yes really) and they certainly were terrific hosts (nothing doll-like about them at all) with a lovely property and a huge conservatory for us guests to use.

We knew it would be good when we walked up to the entrance and found a slate personally welcoming us and our accompanying party of 'The Smiths'.


Barbie and Ken were keen to usher us in so we could get our boots off and relax over tea and crumpets in the conservatory, but we were so enthralled with this welcome sign we wanted to stay outside a while and enjoy it. The outside became even more interesting when we heard some very loud squawks and discovered blue and gold macaws sitting in a tree just a few feet away. They have apparently gone rather wild after the death of their owner, and while a novelty for the guests, are a bit of a pain for the locals, being both noisy and fruit thieves.


We all found it rather amusing that Gio was reading 'A Parrot in the Pepper Tree' while parrots/macaws were sitting in an apple tree just a few feet away.


Barbie was a little worried about us getting meal as there was a big horse fair on and the town was very busy as a result. She helped us book a table at The Indian restaurant, The Mango Tree, where we'd enjoyed a good meal on the first night of our holiday, before catching the Pack Horse bus out to start the walk. We had to wait until late, but that wasn't really a problem as we'd had our crumpets and a complimentary sherry to keep us going, and it also meant we had time to have a pre dinner beer in the Black Bull.

While in the Black Bull, one of the guides who was leading a party of C to C walkers gave us a bit of a scare, when he started talking about the specific 'Blue route' that we needed to follow over the moor of Nine Standards rig the next day, as opposed to the 'Red route' which is used at other times of the year. We knew nothing about these new erosion control routes, and only had one route on our rather old strip map. We therefore had some internet homework to do before setting off the next morning. It didn't stop us enjoying our curry and a good night's sleep though.

Lots of love, Wooly, George, Yorkie and Gio xxx