Journey's End: Robin Hoods Bay

While it would have been lovely to linger over, and savour, our final few miles, this wasn't actually an option as we had a deadline to keep. We were due to catch the Pack Horse minibus to take us back to our Bearmobile at Kirkby Stephen at 4.00 p.m.

As we had nearly 16 miles to do, we'd hoped to breakfast at 7.30 a.m., so as to be on our way at 8:00, but were told breakfast was at 8.00 and we didn't feel like arguing. However, our landlady assured us we would easily be in Robin Hoods Bay by 3.30 so we decided not to worry and to take the time needed to extract the last ounce of enjoyment from our last cooked breakfast.

We were still on our way by 08:30 and it was a good job we hadn't skimped on breakfast, as it was a long and steep road climb out of Grosmont - about 2 miles of 1:3 gradient, it was a good job we were now well honed walking machines.

After the road we had moor walking to Littlebeck, then it was into some attractive woods which included this very old hermitage (it's Gio perched on the poles to check it out) ...

... and also the impressive Falling Foss waterfall. We then alternated more road walking with more moor walking which included some very squishy sections. The sea came into sight and with it the realisation that we really were looking at the end.

We approached the sea via a caravan park and found ourselves on a delightful stretch of coast path. The views were wonderful and the sun was shining and the sky was blue. It could hardly have been more perfect and quite different to the windy and stormy weather as we set off along the coast from St Bees 2 weeks earlier.

We had made excellent time, reaching the coast at lunchtime. We therefore stopped on the coast path to enjoy a leisurely lunch and to admire the spectacular rock formations.

As it was such as lovely day and it was a Sunday afternoon, there were loads of people out enjoying the coast path. We were pretty certain though that most had only walked a mile to two and certainly not the 190 miles we had walked.

The saying that all good things come to an end is never truer than with the Coast to Coast walk. As the coast path ended we found ourselves strolling down a tarmac street with lots of other day trippers getting underfoot. It wasn't quite as exciting as the footpaths we'd covered, but it was still the C to C route until ... the beach was in front of us and the path had quite literally ended.

On one side there was the fairly modern map of the route, telling us we were at journey's end, on the other was a pub with the more classic end of the walk plaque which has been there quite a few years ...

... our female minder thinks she remembers it from her first walk completion around 18 years ago.

We had the traditional dipping of the boot in the sea and we sent a postcard or two, then there really was no reason to linger. The walk was over and our minibus transfer was waiting and ready to go whenever we were, so it was hello and goodbye to Robin Hoods Bay, giving credence to that old adage that it is better to journey than to arrive. The journey was what it was all about, and we had arrived.

We'll look back and reflect, next time.

Lots of love George, Yorkie, Gio and Wooly xxx

More Moor then No More Moor

As we left the Lion Inn, it began to really feel as if we were on the down hill stretch to to Robin Hoods Bay. There were only 2 days to go and neither was going to be particularly long or hard. We were determined to enjoy every last minute and so we did.

The first 3 miles weren't the best of the walk though, as they were, unusually for a National Park section, along a road. It wasn't that busy, but the cars were driving very fast, especially a group of hot hatches who were clearly racing.

It was a relief to get back on a moorland track and to enjoy the piece and quiet of the countryside. As our walking was along a very flat track it was a surprise to come across a trig point, a reminder that though flat, the moors are quite high.

As you can see it was another glorious day and we weren't the only ones enjoying the sunshine and heather. Our friend Mr Mole also thought it was a great day for a stroll and joined us for a section of the route. 

After the mole, we had the company of a horse and rider and then, all of a sudden, we came to a gate and the moors ended. We looked ahead to rather different scenery, but as you can see from our next picture, it was still very pleasant. 

From the edge of the moor it was downhill to the river at Glaisdale. As it wasn't quite lunchtime and we hadn't got far to go after Glaisdale, we took advantage of an outdoor table at a pub serving a rather fine pint of York Brewery's Guzzlar. 

Our next section of path took us through woods and beside the river Esk. At Egton Bridge we practised our pole vaulting again across another set of big stepping stones. 

Our destination for the afternoon was the railway village of Grosmont. We reached it via the old Barnards Toll Road. Wooly checked out the list of tolls to see if we owed anything. Horses and hearses got mentioned, but not sheep and bears, so we put our wallets away. 

As we came into Grosmont we discovered there was  steam gala on, and the station was just yards from our bed and Breakfast. Our landlady actually told us to keep our window shut to keep the smoke from the engines out. We had plenty of tine to go and see them on the platform though, but we preferred the engines we see at home at our local North Norfolk Railway. 

We ate at the Railway Tavern that night, and we were sad to think this was our last night on the Coast to Coast walk. 

Lots of love, George, Yorkie, Wooly and Gio xxx

Lion Sighted, but no Zebra

Leaving Osmotherly we had a long day's walk ahead of us. Next stop was the Blakey Lion Inn which enjoys a remote moorland location a big  20-ish miles from Osmotherly.

As we'd started today's walk yesterday, before doubling back, we took a short cut up to rejoin the route of the C to C. This involved a rather steep scramble through heather and bracken - it might actually have been easier to go up to the road. Once on the route proper, the walking and views were amazing. There was one big draw back though - the moors are far from flat!

We had expected one moor, but the reality was whole series of moors separated from each other by deep valleys. I suppose the area isn't called the North York Moors, not Moor singular, for nothing. Now the moors are a lot higher than you think and the descent into the valleys was steep, which of course meant the climbs back out were equally steep. It was certainly challenging walking, but very rewarding.

At this point in our walk we were sharing our route with the Cleveland Way. You might have thought this would have meant traffic on the path would have been plentiful, but it wasn't, there wasn't a single other bear in sight - strange?!

As we went up moor and down valley we had a few interesting sights as well as the stunning scenery.

This included one of Wainwright's favourites, the Wain Stones, which provided an excellent scrambling diversion, great for climbing enthusiasts myself, George, and Yorkie.

We reached the end of the 'up and down' section in time for a late lunch the far side of Cley Bank Top. For many C to C walkers this is the end of a day's stage, and the great man, Alfred Wainwright himself, suggests that only strong walkers consider continuing. We're pleased to say that we clearly fall into this latter category, as we had a further 10 miles to do to reach the end of our daily stage. However, this wasn't a problem for us, even though we'd had a challenging morning, as a) we were walk fit by now and b) we were about to embark on a flat and fast stretch of the route. This was because, after one final climb, we would be crossing Urra Moor following an old railway route. We romped along at a fast pace, thoroughly enjoying the easy walking, and we had the moor almost all to ourselves, with just the numerous red grouse for company ...

At Bloworth Crossing, truly in the middle of nowhere, the C to C route leaves the Cleveland Way to follow the historic Rosedale Ironstone Railway. Shortly after we'd have liked to stop for tea, and just as we wondered just when the Blakey Inn would appear on the horizon, it did ...  

... the inn is that red roofed building, looking quite distant. In fact it was distant, and it took quite a while to get there. Nevertheless we we there by about 6.00 p.m. which was pretty good going, especially as, not only had we walked more than 20 miles, we had climbed more than the height of Snowdon.

The Lion is a great place for a hearty meal and a pint or two of real ale. We especially enjoyed the Old Peculiar and we slept well, reassured by the fact that we had a much shorter day tomorrow.

Lots of love, George, Yorkie, Wooly and Gio xxx